Who enters the world of 3D printing sooner or later begins to dream about multicolored prints and start trying. Pause codes, divided gcodes, change filament with printing in progress, and more! Yes, because a double extruder printer, until recently was too expensive for those who print in 3D as a hobby. At least until the summer of 2018 when Geeetech has released the A10M for less than 300 euros! After 2 years of attempts, as soon as it was available in the European warehouse, the order has started.
The A10M is a double-stranded evolution of the A10. The sister’s aluminium structure, the Geeetech special plate and the electronics are all part of it. Again, the two extruders (Titan clone) and the hotend group with double filament inlet and single outlet nozzle are interesting. The printer, like its younger sister, recalls in form and electronics the perhaps best known Creality Ender-3. However, it has some nice differences both in its assembly and in its use. This printer uses Marlin 1.1.8 as standard firmware.
Here are the specifications, as you can find on the official fact sheet:
- Printing volume: 220 x 220 x 260 mm
- Printing accuracy: 0.1 mm
- Movement Accuracy: X/Y 0.011mm Z 0.0025mm
- Filament diameter: 1.75 mm
- Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm
- Connectivity: USB, SD card
- Heated bed: yes
- Maximum printing speed: 120 mm / s
- Extruder temperature: max 250 ° C
- Plate temperature: max 100 ° C
- Geeetech Super Plate” plate with high adhesion
- End of filament sensor for each extruder
- Printing resumes from power failure
The package arrived is very large and strangely with the Amazon logo. The original packaging was open, with the cardboard broken and a couple of shots in the polystyrene. The screws and one of the two extruders were free in the outer carton. We’re off to a good start!
I check the contents well with the attached sheet that shows the components and fortunately nothing is missing. At first glance, you can see only one on the x-axis, but nothing that seems to predict the proper mounting.
Inside the package I find:
- 2 main parts,
- the base and the riser of the Z axis,
- the power supply,
- 4 ptfe tubes,
- the two “titan style” extruders,
- 2 supports for coils to mount a 1GB SD,
- a spare nozzle,
- a wrench for eccentric nuts, hexagons,
- a needle to clean the nozzle and a tool to clean the throats,
- a few meters of PLA in 2 colors,
- a bag full of spare screws,
- a mouse pad (but why?),
- a short illustrated guide for mounting the printer.
I start the assembly of my new Geeetech A10M. I was curious, enthusiastic and happy because the printer has not any damage.
However, I spoke too early. I put the base on the table and immediately noticed that the points of support were wrong, the whole structure was off-axis. I loosen all the screws, I put them back on the table and the game was over, or almost. In fact, the two rear caps that close the profiles came off because the broken supports, fortunately they have just an aesthetic function.
Going on with the assembly, when I started to adjust the eccentric nuts I couldn’t adjust the block of the hotend that moved along the x-axis. I disassembled everything and notice that the rear wall was totally embarked. Fortunately (?!) the metal is not too thick and with 2 pairs of pliers and a lot of patience I put it back on the axis, I reassembled and I was ready to start.
Effective time for assembly: 15-20 minutes.
Real time for mounting and fixing problems: 60-70 minutes
I turn on the Geeetech A10M, insert the two filaments making them both come out of the nozzle, helped by the extruded Titan-clone, insert the SD and with the interface of Marlin 1.1.8 (I love Marlin!) I start the printing of the sample cone provided on the card provided: great print, great quality, two-tone … wonder but at 83% freezes for no apparent reason. The quality of the print and the Geeetech plate satisfy me. It makes a great grip and just cold makes me detach the print with a finger.
PROBLEMS? AN ODYSSEY.
After the first print the odyssey begins: I try to print the lizard but without success, after a few layers the print “moves”. I immediately notice that the air outlet towards the nozzle is broken and all loose, impossible to have ruined it myself but “not bad”, I will reprint it. I also notice that the radial fan to which it is connected has a broken casing and in fact does not even turn. Moreover, the nozzle continues to leak black sludge: I take everything down to 220° and I clean the hot end, the black was probably a residue of some filament used for testing. I mount a 5015 24v radial fan (the only one I have at this moment!) and design a simple air conveyor by printing it with another of my printers (you can see it in the picture).
I resume the prints but I see that often the filament blocks the extrusion: the Geeetech support advises me to put the filament coils in the direction of the tube that makes the filament enter the extruders, so I design supports suitable to turn them and to raise so as not to touch the extruders. In fact, the music changes.
THE ODYSSEY WITH MY GEEETECH A10M GOES ON
Still some problems with prints at low temperatures (180°-190°). The axes move but the extruders do not. I fixed it with a firmware update. And what about the noisy extruder? Once disassembled, thickened and closed without tightening, the noise seemed to disappear.
Last consideration. The nozzle has a different size from the standard that should fit the A10M (MK10 – M7), fortunately, in the packaging you find a spare one. You never know…
I must tell the truth: the Geeetech support via facebook was wonderful, always present, ready to give me advice to repair problems and available in case to send me the damaged parts or in case to change the printer (a bit ‘long time for my desire to print)
As said before, to get to an excellent performance I’ve printed some parts. Here is the site where you can take them:
The Geeetech A10M like its sisters A10 and A30 has a really good print quality that performs well both on full prints and in vase mode. The management of the double color, after a good number of wrong prints, becomes well manageable, better with Simplify 3D than with Cura or other slicers, in addition to the possibility through a software distributed by Geeetech to modify any gcode and color it even choosing the percentage of color or a variation that includes only a few layers.
WHAT WE LIKED ABOUT GEEETECH A10M
The Geeetech A10M has a lot of pros. Obviously the yield of the two-tone prints. You can really print details in double color plus the colors in the scale of the two shades chosen.
The print quality is really excellent. I have compared the prints with those of the A30 and I do not see any difference in quality.
The printer is very quiet in stock version (except for the extruder that squeaked) compared to the average of printers on the market.
The “Geeetech Super Plate” allows to have a very good adhesion in temperature and to detach the piece with a finger with a cold plate. As soon as the print is finished, with the plate still at the temperature, it is very difficult to detach the print.
It ‘s very nice the ability to act on the color mix directly from the printer setting the percentage of color mixing even when printing in progress and change it at will, even if you want to program from a certain height always acting from the printer through the control panel.
Excellent the possibility to connect, without effort or additional cables, the auto leveling sensor directly on the board mounted on the back of the hotend, whether it is a bl-touch/3d-touch or it is a proximity sensor.
I really liked the Geeetech support via Facebook, I repeat, great.
Among the flaws of the Geeetech A10M, it’s remarkable the adjustment of the plate. It is “reduced”. The screws are a bit too short compared to the average printer on the market. This is due to the proximity of the box that encloses the motherboard.
The switch of the home on the z axis is adjustable by means of 2 screws on the side, should be positioned well before starting, but is not structurally designed for a fine adjustment that would be very convenient given the reduced adjustment of the screws of the bed.
In addition, as with other Geeetechs, once the corners have been levelled, it is necessary to work with z-offset (about 0.7mm) to lower and tailor the nozzle for printing.
Unlike the sisters, the hotend block is larger and closer to the plate, so more attention must be paid to the “cooling” compartment.
As with the A10 and Ender-3, the fan that cools the motherboard is placed under the plate towards the front, in such a position as to risk dropping filament residue inside and causing damage to the fan or the board: the printing of a protection is a must.
The 3D-touch of the Geeetech A10M deserves a special mention. It is a sensor for the leveling of the plate, which needs a calibration that can take from 5-10 minutes to half an hour. It helps a lot for the success of a correct first layer of Print. Product highly recommended to anyone who buys it for the few euros it costs.
If youwould like to install it on your printer read here the various options: https://www.italia3dprint.it/bltouch/
WOULD I EVENTUALLY BUY IT BACK?
I asked myself this question several times: could I recommend it to someone?
I’m sure that my misadventure is just an isolated case. I could have used the Amazon service and had the whole printer replaced, if only I didn’t want to work immediately!
So considering only the printer, I would definitely recommend it for the quality of the prints and the double filament. This printer is perfect for those creative people who do not want to paint the finished works. I have to say that the price is advantageous, especially now that the price has also dropped!
As usual, there are more than one buying channel, and 2 of them are all:
You can choose AMAZON, with its excellent policy on returns and fast shipping: https://amzn.to/34jcZ6f
or in the well-known Chinese electronic shop GEARBEST for maximum savings: SUPER PRICE