A Simplify 3D guide is one of those things you can’t miss in a blog like ours. And I waited far too long before giving birth to it.
Simplify 3D is perhaps the most complete, versatile and powerful slicer on the market. I say trade because this slicer is not free, but paid.
Certainly the figure is not dizzying and probably many of you, after reading this guide where we will try to explain some PRO functions, will complete the purchase of this software. Many people say that Simplify 3D is addictive, that is, when you get used to using it you can no longer do without it … Will it be true? Let’s scroll through it together!
I would like to address the subject with all the calm it deserves, trying to dwell on all the points that may be useful. The software is so wide that some options or menus will be left out. Nevertheless, the series of guides is still quite substantial, it will be in fact 3 guides.
Let’s see how they will be divided:
- In this first article I will talk about the installation of the software and the setting of the printer, with an eye to have a high-performance software and specific to the machine in use. Work table and models.
- In the second I will talk about the bars, that is MENU AND TOOLBAR of Simplify 3D
- The third and last one will focus on the PROCESSES and STARTING of printing, which items to deal with and how to set them to get the best results.
- There will also be a very short guide that will teach us how to get a 3D text from an image in less than a minute!
This subdivision serves to move easily between the various guides and then move on to what interests us most without delay beyond.
With so many free Slicers, why pay for Simplify 3D?
Reading this Simplify 3D Guide you will discover many of the features of this software, some of them unique! If you have a second extruder you won’t find a slicer that is optimized to handle 2 better extruders than Simplify. It allows you to print multiple objects at once with different settings but even the same object with different settings based on different features! Amazing, isn’t it? We can place the media manually and last but not least we have a powerful tool to analyze and repair the mesh, not to mention various tools designed for certain tasks.
Simplify 3D guide: Download and Installation
Simplify 3D, as already mentioned, is for a fee, and can be downloaded from the official website, if you move on the menu BUY NOW you will have in front of your eyes, the button BUY.
The sale price is $149, which at the exchange rate is just over €120. Surely anyone who wants to print professionally can not be frightened by this figure.
Once purchased you will receive an email within 30 min (look in the spam), where the download link will be present. Download and install without big surprises.
Simplify 3D guide: First execution
The installation will be followed by a short configuration wizard, where you will find a lot of printer profiles ready.
At the first execution we will see this panorama, it may seem not easy to read at first. At least it seemed to me, then I just had to identify the various areas. With clear ideas everything is easier to read.
These thematic areas, as you will notice, are the same as those we have indicated in the subdivision of the articles. In the first then Models and Working Table. The second one is about Tool Bar and Menu Bar. In the third Simplify 3D guide we will talk about Process, Gcode creation and printing start.
Se volete sentirvi a casa fin dal primo momento si può cambiare molto velocemente lingua:
- Sul menu > Aiuto > Aiuto > Lingua: Italiano
E come per magia il software cambierà lingua.
Let’s start with the templates box. It is located on the left and at the top. In this section we can load, by + or by dragging, the models to be slice. These models will remain in the box even after the restart. If we think we still need them and we just want to make them disappear momentarily just deflate them. To delete them permanently, just use the remove button. The Center and position button does nothing different than its description, it centers the model.
The interesting part of this dialogue BOX comes by clicking twice on the model name. In fact, the window on the right appears.
Through these options we can move by a known distance the model in each axis. It is also possible to insert it slightly if the support point of our model is jagged, and we need it to be standing. We can sink the model, with a minus and the necessary quantity (as in the figure) and here we have a flat and solid base for our model.
A second option is resizing which can also be uneven on all axes, deflagging uniform resizing.
The third option will rotate the file in the various axes, until you find the position that suits you. Of course, each option has a button to return everything to the basic settings.
Little to say about the workspace, the usual workspace where with the mouse we can rotate the plane, change the view and approach / move away the view.
I only add that the plane is millimetric and you decide the degree of precision you want. Through the tools menu you can select options, here Visualization.
In the middle box you will see: Grid Line Spacing. The values refer to the strongest and thinnest lines. I like to keep the lines thick every inch and the lines thin every millimeter. It may be a little extreme, but it allows me to work with millimetre precision.
You choose the level of precision that best suits your needs.
Configuring the printer
If you didn’t follow the wizard configuration at the first start, or your printer was not among the many already preset, don’t worry!
Let’s continue with this guide by configuring the printer at least basically. Let’s go to the Tools menu, then Options and then Machine.
Simplify 3D guide – Settings:
You can leave these settings out and set them directly in the process or do so now, your choice.
As you can see we will have to differentiate if we are using a Cartesian machine or a delta (therefore with a circular plate). And consequently we will set the values of size of the printing plate used.
Offsets with respect to the origin, normally set to 0, can work well in different situations. For example, if we wanted to make the machine go home with the nozzle out of the plate we could do so. Move the endstop outermost by 2 cm and enter this value in the relative offset.
Another possibility is also to set the offset in Z and lower (very slightly) or raise the nozzle without directly affecting the endstop. This is particularly useful for slightly adjusting the first layer.
Instead, reversing the axis of the plate is used to change the origin of the points, if you are with the endstops left, instead of right as usual a simple tick and you will be ready to go.
Reversing the Z axis instead can be useful if we want to use this slicer to print with a DLP, a resin printer that has the opposite plate.
Simplify 3D guide: head offset refers to the distance between the nozzle and the level probe.
The Printer models option is nice, although it may be unnecessary.
You can give a color to a printer and load an STL that represents it, so doing we will see the chassis of the machine. This even if at the slicing level it won’t give you any advantages it will help you to recognize the printer you are working on, in case you have more than one.
You will probably find your printer on the net, in Stl, at thingiverse.
Since in this Simplify 3D guide we talked about the Menu —> Tools —> Options, we can exhaust the topic Options with the last change that in my opinion is crucial. In the Preferences Tab I suggest you to set mm/s instead of the default mm/min. When you talk about printing speed (on Facebook or with friends) normally start of mm/s, and set it on the software will help you to avoid confusion.
This concludes the first Simplify 3D guide
GO DIRECTLY TO THE SECOND SIMPLIFY 3D GUIDE: MENU AND TOOLBAR
Here is the link to the third Simplify 3D guide: PROCESSES and STARTING OF PRINT. Or if you want to switch immediately to the Help: get a 3D text from an image in less than a minute!