JGAurora Majic Maker: First impressions
When I was contacted by Gearbest, selected to try in preview this new printer branded JGaurora I was surprised how excited. I’ve never been able to try a printer so far ahead of the general public.
Now let’s talk about the protagonist of this review, the JGaurora Majic Maker.
As I mentioned at the beginning this 3D printer is part of the series of new generation printers, which arrive pre-assembled to 50%, have all the necessary accessories and options. And have a compact frame design that makes them very rigid.
Just as Jgaurora has accustomed us not to face the usual clone of the clone, it is a unique design, different from any other model on the market. In fact, we find the base completely closed, almost hermetically, where we can only imagine the components it contains. The plate runs on linear guides and the monitor is the typical liquid crystals equipped with a knob to navigate between the menus. The whole frame is made of metal, so it all suggests having to deal with a solid 3d printer.
JGAurora Majic Maker: Unboxing
The printer is well packed in the box, protected and well firm. At the opening we find some small component that will be installed in addition to some tools. Not an entire workshop but everything you need to be able to install it without having any tools.
- some wrenches;
- a small set of allen wrench;
- a reserve nozzle;
- the USB cable to connect to the PC;
- a card reader;
- a 8gb Scandisk SD card;
Inside the USB card we can find, in addition to the trial print and manual, also some old versions of Cura (ver. 14 and 15, for Windows and Mac) and the program Jgaurora.
If you want a more precise idea of unboxing and editing I recommend the dedicated video.
JGAurora Majic Maker: The assembly
As in use in the last period you have to assembly it, through the appropriate holes on the frame. You don’t need any fine attention to detail, the essential is to assemble.
The whole process, then from the removal from the box to seeing it print can take no more than 2 hours, and the time depends on your skill and experience in this regard. Following the instructions on the SD card you don’t encounter big problems, also because the processes are explained in detail.
JGAurora Majic Maker: Features
Frame material: Sheet metal frame
Base of the frame: aluminium
Nozzle diameter: 0.4 millimeter
Nozzle temperature: 250 degree ambient temperature
Print area: 220x220x250mm
Layer thickness: 0.05-0.3mm
Offline Printing: SD Card
Bed temperature: room temperature at 110 degrees
Material Diameter: 1.75 mm
System Support: Windows7 / Windows 10 / XP
This 3D printer has many good choices and has a number of options that do not make you feel the lack of printers much more famous and expensive.
Here are a few examples to give you an idea of print quality. The prints were made with the cheap Tianse filament. Which you see in the image above.
Among the various interesting features of this printer there are:
- Recovery of printing after blackout;
- End-of-wire sensor;
- Removable plate, attached with clip and flexible, to detach prints with ease;
- It has a fan to cool the extruded filament, incorporated into the extruder.
I would like to make a special mention to a menu option. Navigating with the knob between the menus I came across the option “initializing eeprom”, and it’s the first time I see it. Too often I had problems with prints, maybe for old settings, overwritten and rewritten that would conflict the machine. Especially with the offsets. In the past I have always had to connect the machine to the PC and use the program “clear eeprom” that is among the example programs of arduino. If happen now, with this 3d printer would be enough a button: “initializing eeprom”! Nice thought Jgaurora!
What I did not like
For sure I don’t mind praising a printer when I think it’s doing a good job, just as I don’t mind criticizing what I don’t like. In this case, there is something to say.
The printing quality of this machine is excellent, in line with the best you can do in this price range (but also in some upper range). The only thing I couldn’t find at the height is cooling. So if you buy this 3d printer and you’re planning to print thin and tall objects you’ll have to intervene to support this. It’s certainly not something prohibitive or difficult, but it’s an upgrade to think about.
If you notice the tips of the low pokemon Gengar you can see that they are not well defined. This is, for example, a typical sign of poor ventilation overheating.
Here you can intervene in several ways. Or you buy a new bigger radial fan, with minimal expense to increase the incoming airflow on the plate.
Or, with some insulating tape, the part of the fanduct that blows away from the nozzle stops to intensify the air flow on the plastic just exited.
Other choices that I do not share are the positioning of the end wire sensor, which seems unstable and makes more uncomfortable the filament load and the liquid crystal monitor with the knob. Why go back when their other models had the touch that was really right, both as operation and as menu!
What I Liked
I like the frame of this machine very much, the aluminum body protects the electronics very well and has space to add what we want! As you can see from the photo is all well placed and tidy.
The top of the frame is also quite solid, and it also allows us to speed up a little by printing.
There are many options, now indispensable, that I have already mentioned and I am not here to repeat, not common in this price range!
I don’t want to forget to mention the plate that runs on linear guides, instead of nylon wheels and that gives a precision and durability definitely greater.
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