We can consider the Anet E10 as the evolution of its sister Anet A8 (someone thinks it’s a copy of the famous Creality CR-10) and it’s among the entry level printers. This is justified by the cost of the printer itself. Clearly cost plays an important role in the quality of components so you can’t expect a professional machine at the price the Anet E10 is offered. Despite this, the prints that can be obtained vary from being discreet out of the box, to excellent, changing some key pieces.
The Anet E10 is delivered mostly assembled. The only thing to do is to fix the vertical part that constitutes the Z axis and that includes the X axis on which the print head “navigates”, to the horizontal part, the Y axis. The part underneath is therefore the base where the moulded part is actually deposited and takes shape. This easy assembly, carried out using the relevant screws, will keep you occupied for about ten minutes.
The second step is to connect the electrical cables. These are correctly labeled and the labels are clearly visible on the motors, limit switches and at the box that contains the electronics. Join the cables and you’re done…
A first look
The structure of the printer is completely made of aluminium and once assembled it is solid and robust and does not seem to present any problems due to oscillations, as could happen with the A8. In addition, the electronics and power supply are housed in a fully enclosed box. This makes it electrically safe, as the electrical connections are not easily accessible. In the box there is also, in the frontal part, the large display and the rotary selector to control the different functions of the printed product. On the side there is a slot for inserting the micro SD and the USB port.
When you have to level the heated platter, you will probably find that when you turn the black knobs under the platter, they will tend not to turn, at least in one direction. This is because the holes where the screws to which the knobs are screwed are threaded and not through.
Solving the problem is very easy. The simplest solution would be to use a drill and a drill bit with a slightly larger diameter than the diameter of the screw that must pass freely through the hole …. If you do not have a drill available, even the tip and a pliers may be sufficient…
It is also likely that the aluminium plates that make up the support on which the heated plate is fixed are more or less bent, and this, does not allow the bearings to which the support is fixed to slide optimally. If the problem is “serious”, you will have to manually straighten the parts with extreme caution, disassembling the support and using the minimum force necessary to straighten the parts. Always keep in mind that aluminium is a soft material…
The very material with which the plates are made seems not to be one of the best. When levelling the printing surface, it is necessary to act on the relative knobs located at the four corners of the support itself. Since the material is too “soft”, the frame tends to deform and to compromise again the alignment of the bearings on which it is fixed, preventing a very good flow.
A note of demerit unfortunately must also be assigned to the bearings (LM8UU) that being not of excellent quality, flowing along the bars tend to block and should be replaced immediately at a cost of about ten euros.
Although the “wheeled” system adopted by some printers does not convince many, the prints made by printers that use this type of mechanics are qualitatively respectable. The only drawback could be their calibration. The E10, in fact, unlike others, is not equipped with eccentric nuts and the adjustment of the “wheels” could be difficult.
The Anet E10 is well equipped and includes:
One micro SD card + USB adapter
In the SD you will find a video guide about the assembly of the printed products, the guides about the assembly and printing in PDF format, the software for slicing and the drivers to connect the printer to your PC through the USB port.
Multifunction screwdriver, set of hexagonal keys, some clamps, some spare screws ( screws and T Nuts ), a spare nozzle ( Extruder neck with PTFE Nozzle throat, heater block, brass nozzle ), a USB cable, a spatula and two samples of PLA filament, a cutter, the PTFE tube that connects the extruder to the hot end enough to make the connection 2 times ( so cutting it in half you will also have the spare )
Type DIY ( Do It Yourself )
Extruder diameter 0.4 mm
Filament diameter 1.75 mm
Printable materials PLA, ABS, HIPS
Printing surface Ultrabase
Print volume 220 x 270 x 330mm
Layer Height 0.1 – 0.4 mm
Print speed 40 – 120 mm/s
XY-axis position accuracy 0.015 mm
Z-axis position accuracy 0.004 mm
Display LCD screen
Power Requirements Selectable voltage( 110V / 220V ), 250W Max
Compatibility Mac, Windows
Before disposing of the box, make sure that there are no other parts dispersed inside it.
At this address you will find some updgrades that you can print out to improve your E10 yourself. You can add belt tensioners, feet, fanducts, in short any upgrade you think you should apply to your machine. Obviously printed in 3d … so totally free.
Where to buy this 3D printer?
Obviously on Gearbest where you can be sure that you will not have to pay customs duties, which are around 50 € and you will receive it at home within 15 days.
If you think you can not resist 15 days and are willing to spend almost 100 euros more to take advantage of the Amazon service then you can buy it at 330 €. Look price HERE
There is also a “Pumped” version (Look it here) with the same dimensions of the CR10, that is the Anet E12 with sizes 30x30x40 in strong promotion now!