Warping can often occur if you do not know how to counteract it. It could be part of the problem of poor adhesion to the plate. With which it also has points in common, even if it has as many with the problem of the separation of layers.
Warping: Measures for all materials
Before moving on to the specific measures on ABS, nylon or other materials that we know suffer from warping we deal with a principle that can apply with any material, even with PLA:
- If it is mandatory to turn off the layer fan for ABS printing, for the PLA if we find the problem of warping it is recommended to turn it on only after about ten layers. You can learn how to set this option with Cura 3.0. Just follow our fourth guide.
Start with First guide
- If we notice a small lift, we can add a Brim of at least one centimetre to the print. In more extreme cases we can opt for a Raft, and set this to an offset of 2 centimeters. A lot of material will be used but you can be sure of the result. If you would like to learn more about Brim and Raft you can do so in our dedicated guide.
- We check that we have the plate perfectly leveled, following the guide on the plate leveling. This step is essential, if in an angle the filament does not fully adhere the phenomenon of warping is more easily manifested.
- Try to maximize the model’s adhesion to the plate in all its parts, following the article on how to improve adhesion to the printing plate. Use lacquer, glue, blue tape and any other trick to keep the prints glued to your plate!
Now let’s give a few more method
s for special materials that suffer from warping.
Warping of ABS, Nylon and special materials
As already explained in the article that offers solutions against the separation of layers, in addition to the temperature of the nozzle, which must be kept constant throughout the press, we must also worry about the temperature of the material just extruded. ABS and other polymers similar in behaviour expand with heat, shrink and cool. Obviously the bigger the print, the more this phenomenon is amplified and for this reason we will have to cool the object in the sweetest possible way. In this we have a good help, the heated platter.
Not only does the heated platter allow the plastic materials to adhere to the printing platter, but through the diffused heat it does not allow the object to cool rapidly. In this way, it keeps it completely resting on the plate and without warping, better in a closed chamber printer.
We can safely say that to make sure to keep as safe as possible from the phenomenon of warping will need to follow the instructions given to avoid the separation of layers, but combine them with those for adhesion to the printing plate, for convenience we will make a summary of the various points.
- The first and fundamental point is the use of the heated plate at the recommended temperatures for the ABS and similar 100 ° for the adhesion of the first layers and then do not go down under 80 ° -90 °. It is very important to keep the hot plate throughout the print as it will help to cool the print more slowly.
- When printing ABS and the like it is a must to turn off the cooling fan of the plate.
As already mentioned, the more gently the extruded material cools down, the less likely it is to shrink back.
- Close windows and doors and open them gently. Eddy currents that create sudden changes in temperature are the main cause of these deformations.
Warping: Cover the Printer
In this regard, if you own a 20x20x20 printer and you are interested in printing ABS, you may find it useful to find, many owners use it, the IKEA Lack coffee table. This very cheap cabinet, and offers a perfect base to close the printer. An alternative is also to build a cover, to turn the open-room printer into a closed-room one. You can see my rudimentary wooden and plexiglass cover made of salvaged wood. Without counting the time of assembly and painting, so the materials alone, cost about 25$.